Atlanta Heating Systems Used In Atlanta Real Estate
Types of Heating Systems
Steam, hot water, forced warm air, and electric heating systems all function in the same basic way. Each system is equipped with a control, a heat producer, a heat exchanger, and a heat distributor.
- The control, called a thermostat, signals a need for heat.
- The signal turns on the heat producer, usually an oil or gas burner or an electric heating element.
- The heat warms the transfer medium (air, water, or steam) in the heat exchanger.
- If the heat exchanger heats air, it is a furnace.
- If the heat exchanger heats water or produces steam, it is a boiler.
- The transfer medium moves by gravity or is forced through ducts (warm air) or pipes (water or steam) to the heat distributors located in the living areas.
- The heat distributors in a forced warm-air system are registers.
- The heat distributors in a hot water or steam system are convectors or radiators. In a hot water radiant heating system, the water moves through tubing concealed in the ceiling, walls, or floor.
- Return ducts or pipes carry the medium back to the heat exchanger.
- When the temperature reaches the level set on the thermostat, the thermostat automatically shuts down the system.
Electric Boilers and Furnaces
In an electric boiler or furnace, the heating elements are immersed directly in the transfer medium, either water or air. Maintenance of such a system is similar to that required for a gas or oil-fired boiler or furnace; problems with the electric heating elements are best left to a professional.
Duct Heaters
Designed for installations in the ducts of an existing forced warm-air hearing, duct heaters can be turned on at the same time as the blower or can be operated by a separate thermostat located in an area requiring supplemental heat. The heaters must be controlled so they don't turn on unless the blower is running.
Baseboard Heaters
These heaters require no pipes or ducts. They connect directly to the electrical system in the house. A good choice for a room addition or a hard-to-heat area, a baseboard heater has its own thermostat and safety thermal cutoff switch.
- Some baseboard heaters use resistance coils that glow red-hot.
- Others have a resistance wire that heats a ceramic tube.
- Still others have the heating element immersed in a sealed tube. Fins that radiate heat into the room surround the tubes.
Most baseboard heaters are very reliable. If you do have a problem, you'll have to call in an electrician.
Wall and Ceiling Heaters
Suitable for bathrooms and other small areas, these resistance-heated units are mounted in a wall or ceiling and are wired directly into the electrical system. Clean the heater occasionally. Replace a defective one.
Radiant Heating Panels
These may be electrically heated glass panels mounted in walls or ceilings or special gypsum board panels embedded with electric resistance wires and installed in place of regular gypsum board. Both kinds are wired into the electrical system and are controlled by a thermostat. Once installed, they provide trouble-free service for years.
Steam Heat
A hallmark of many older homes, steam heat begins in a boiler fueled by gas, oil, or electricity. The boiler turns water into steam, which rises through pipes to radiators or convectors. There the steam gives up its heat and condenses into water, which returns to the boiler.
Hot Water Heat
In a hot water heating system, water heating in a boiler travels through a network of pipes to the heat distributors (usually convectors or radiators) where the heat is given off. The cooled water then returns to the boiler through the return pipe.
- In older homes, the movement of water is governed by gravity. Warmer, lighter water rises and takes the place of heavier, cooler water.
- The more modern hydronic systems employ a circulating pump to move the water under pressure. A thermostat governs the operation of the pump as well as the burner.
- An expansion tank, usually mounted above the boiler, contains air and water. The air acts as a cushion to maintain heated water at the proper pressure.
Maintaining Atlanta Steam Heating Systems Periodically check the safety valve, steam pressure gauge, and water level gauge. Be sure to regularly inspect your burner and thermostat. Maintenance you can perform includes:
Safety Valve
Located on top of the boiler, the safety valve allows steam to escape if the pressure in the boiler exceeds safe levels. Test the valve every month during the heating season by depressing the handle (stand clear of valve pipe). If steam doesn't come out, have the valve replaced.
Steam Pressure Gauge
Check that the pressure of the steam in the boiler as shown on the gauge is within normal bounds. Normal bounds typically means 2 to 10 pounds per square inch (psi). If not, shut off the boiler at once and call for service.
Water Level Gauge
Once a month, open the valves at each end of the sight glass in the gauge. The water level should be in the middle of the glass. (Be sure to close the valves after checking). If water is not visible, immediately shut off the boiler and let it cool. Then, add water by opening the fill valve on the water inlet pipe, unless your system has an automatic water fill valve. In that case, call for service.
Helpful Hint for Cleaning
To remove the sight glass for cleaning or replacement, shut off the valves and undo the collar nuts at each end of the glass. Install new gaskets when you reassemble the unit.
Low installation cost, fast heat delivery, and reliability make forced warm-air systems a popular heating choice. The system is versatile and lends itself to the addition of central air conditioning. In this system, a blower pulls air from the rooms into the cold-air return and return duct, through a filter, and into the furnace. There the air is heated. It then flows back to the rooms through the warm-air ducts and registers.
Forced Air Systems in Atlanta Georgia Caring For the Forced Warm-Air Heating System
To ensure trouble-free operation, service the system as follows:
- Clean or replace the filter monthly during the heating season.
- Brush and vacuum heat exchanger surfaces annually (see owner's manual for instructions).
- Clean the blower blades at the start of each heating season. Add a few drops of motor oil to each oil cup if your blower is equipped with them.
- Check and adjust the belt alignment and tension if your furnace has a belt-driven blower. To replace a worn belt, loosen the motor adjustment bolt, remove the old belt, and attach a new one.
- Examine the ducts annually for leaks; seal any leaks with duct tape.
Balancing the Heat
- If some rooms are too hot or cold, try adjusting the dampers in the registers and, if your system has them, the dampers in the warm-air ducts.
- Leaving the thermostat at one setting, let the system run for 3 hours to stabilize the temperatures. Open the dampers wide in the coldest rooms. Then adjust the dampers room by room until temperatures are balanced. Wait half an hour after each adjustment before rechecking or readjusting.
- Speeding up the blower may help heat chronically cold rooms. Adjust the motor pulley of a belt-driven blower or, for a direct-drive blower, change the electrical connections (see owner's manual).
Setting the Fan Control
If you're chilled by a blast of cool air when the blower turns on, try adjusting the fan control.
- CAUTION: If your furnace has a combination fan and limit control, do not touch the pointer on the limit control side. This pointer turns off the furnace if the maximum allowable air temperature is exceeded.
- As the blower turns on, hold your hand in front of the warm-air register farthest from the furnace.
- Ideally, your hand should feel neither cooler nor warmer.
- If it feels cooler, uncover the control and move the fan control's ON pointer a few degrees lower.
- To adjust the temperature of the air coming out of the registers, move the ON pointer to set the temperature at which the blower turns on, the OFF pointer to set the temperature at which it turns off.
Atlanta Real Estate Gas burners for homes Gas burners can fuel warm-air, hot water, or steam heating systems. When the thermostat in the system calls for heat, the burner's automatic gas valve opens, allowing gas to flow into a manifold and then into venturi tubes where it mixes with air. When the air-gas mixture emerges from the burner ports, the pilot ignites it and heat is created. A thermocouple adjacent to the pilot closes the gas valve if the pilot isn't working.
Solving Pilot Problems
Pilots in gas burners may be electric or gas. For problems with electric pilots, call in a professional. Gas pilots can be relit and cleaned by the homeowner.
Lighting a Gas Pilot
- Before you try to relight a pilot that has gone out, read the instructions usually printed on the front of the boiler or furnace. If there are none, have your utility company light it or follow these steps:
- Use the manual control knob on the automatic gas valve to turn off the gas to the main burner and pilot.
- Allow at least 5 minutes for accumulated gas to dissipate before proceeding.
- Use extreme caution, and take more time if your fuel is bottled gas -- it doesn't dissipate readily.
- When the gas has dissipated, set the thermostat well below room temperature.
- Turn the manual control knob to PILOT and light the pilot, holding the knob there for a minute.
- Release the knob and turn it to ON.
- If the pilot doesn't stay on, call the gas company. (Remember to reset the thermostat when the pilot's relit).
Adjusting the Pilot Flame
The pilot flame should be blue and should cover the thermocouple. Before adjusting the flame, turn the thermostat down. Reset it when you're finished with the adjustment.
Cleaning The Pilot Orifice
If you have trouble lighting the pilot, the orifice may be plugged. To clean it:
- Shut off the gas supply by turning the gas inlet valve handle so it's at a right angle to the pipe.
- Disconnect the thermocouple tub and the pilot gas line from the automatic gas valve.
- Remove the bracket holding the pilot and the thermocouple.
- Use stiff wire to clean the orifice (be careful not to chip it).
- Reattach the bracket, pilot gas line, and thermocouple tube.
- Turn on the gas and relight the pilot.
Cleaning the Burners
- Clogged gas burners and ports heat inefficiently. Clean them at the start of the heating season.
- To reach the ports, shut off the gas inlet valve and remove the bracket holding the pilot and thermocouple.
- Remove any screws or nuts holding the burners and maneuver them out of the combustion chamber.
- Scour the burners with a stiff wire brush.
- Clean the burner ports with stiff wire that's slightly smaller than the diameter of the openings.
- After cleaning, reassemble the burners in the combustion chamber, replacing any screws or nuts that secured the burners.
- Mount the bracket holding the pilot and thermocouple.
- Turn on the gas and relight the pilot.
- Be sure to adjust the air-gas rate as explained below.
Adjusting the Burners
For maximum efficiency, burners fueled with natural gas should burn with a bright blue flame that has a soft blue green interior and no yellow tips. (Check with your gas company for the correct colors for other types of gas). To correct the air-natural gas ratio, you'll need to adjust the air shutters.
- Turn up the thermostat so the burners light.
- Loosen the lock screws.
- Slowly open each shutter until the flames are bright blue.
- Close the shutters gradually until yellow tips appear.
- Slowly reopen the shutters until the yellow tips just disappear.
- Tighten the screws.
Oil Burners
Two types of oil burners are used to produce heat in a warm-air, hot water, and steam heating systems for the home.
- The most common is the pressure, or gun-type, burners
- Vaporizing, or pot-type, burner is used only in small furnaces.
Most oil burners run for years with few problems. For maximum efficiency, call in a professional every year to service your burner. Check a pressure-type burner regularly during the heating season and clean it as necessary. Most problems with vaporizing burners are best left to a professional.
Trouble shooting your Atlanta hot air furnace
There is no heat at all.
Check for:
- The power is out.
- Broken blower belt.
- Broken blower motor.
Remedies:
- Check the fuse box/circuit breaker.
- Replace the belt.
- Call a qualified contractor.
Your rooms are aren't warm enough.
Check for:
- Dirty filter
- Dirty registers
- Leaks in the ducts
- Dirty heat exchanger
- Blocked ducts
- Loose blower belt
- Closed register
- Duct damper in an incorrect position
Remedies:
- Replace the filter.
- Clean the registers.
- Seal the ducts with duct tape.
- Remove any visible obstructions.
- Tighten the blower belt.
- Open the register.
- Adjust the dampers.
- Call a qualified contractor.
Soot collects in your house.
Check for:
- Dirty filter.
- Damaged heat exchanger
- Dirty ducts
Remedies:
- Replace the filter.
- Call a qualified contractor.
- Have a professional clean the ducts.
The blower makes unusual noises, noticeable when the burner is off.
Check for:
- Loose pulley
- Worn blower mounts
- Worn belt is worn
- Belt tension too tight
- Blower bearings need oil
Remedies:
- Tighten the setscrews.
- Put in new blower mounts.
- Replace the belt.
- Loosen the belt tension.
- Oil the bearings.
Atlanta Thermostats for your home
Modern thermostats for heating or air conditioning systems rarely break down. The only maintenance required is an occasional light cleaning. Don't attempt to repair a defective thermostat; instead, replace the entire unit with a new one. Be sure the replacement is the correct voltage and type for your system.
How Thermostats Work
Thermostats are switches that are turned on by a temperature-sensitive device that, in turn, activates the switch controlling the operation of a boiler, furnace, electric heater, air conditioner, or other heating or cooling device. Low-voltage and milivolt thermostats are the most common types. The three principal parts of a thermostat are:
- Heat Sensor Usually bi-metal coil, the heat sensor contracts as it cools, tripping the switch to "on" and expands as it warms, tripping the switch to "off".
- Switch The switch may have open contacts (in older models) or a mercury-type contact enclosed in an airtight glass tube.
- Heat anticipator (found in low-voltage types only) The anticipator prevents the living area from overheating by shutting off the boiler or furnace just before the desired temperature is reached.
Installing a Thermostat
- After removing the old thermostat, feed the wires through the hole in the new base plate and insert the screws.
- Level the plate, then tighten the screws.
- Strip the ends of the wires if needed, or scrape them clean.
- Wrap the ends clockwise around the terminal screws and tighten the screws.
- Mount the thermostat on the base plate.
- Using a pencil, set the anticipator pointer to match the current value marked on the gas valve
Trouble shooting a Central Cooling System for your Atlanta home.
Water leaks into the walls or ceiling.
Check for:
- Clogged drain hose from the condenser pan. (Attic installations)
Remedy:
- Make sure the hose is able to empty the water.
The unit constantly cycles on and off.
Check for:
- Something clogging the evaporator unit or blocking the fan.
Remedy:
- Clean out the evaporator unit.
The air-conditioner doesn't get cold enough.
Check for:
- Dirty condenser coil.
- Direct sun on the evaporator unit.
- Insulation that has fallen off the feed line.
Remedies:
- Clean any debris from the condenser unit so clean air can circulate around the fans.
- Create shade for the unit.
- Secure the insulation firmly to line.
- Replace any worn out insulation.
You should read these tips to help you before and after your purchase of your Atlanta dream home, and if you are looking for you next Atlanta home give the SeeGeorgiaRealEstate Team a call and our Atlanta Realtors will help you find your next home. Weather you are searching for Atlanta real estate, Cumming Georgia real estate or Lake Lanier Real Estate or Alpharetta real estate, or any of the surrounding metro Atlanta areas, we are your answer to finding that perfect home or property
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