Electrical Tips

Fooling around with electricity can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. Don't start on any electrical project without getting professional advice by finding your electrical problem here and clicking through the tips.

Cords and Plugs

Are the cords on your appliances looking a little ragged? Pulling and twisting can often cause the wires inside to sever and break down the insulation causing a short circuit. Replace, don't repair, any electrical cord with broken wires or brittle, worn insulation. If your cords are not detachable, you'll need to have a professional replace a faulty cord. It the cord is detachable, follow these steps to replace:

Replacing a Lamp Socket and Cord

• To remove the socket, loosen the socket shell by pushing in where the word "PRESS" is embossed.
• Lift off the shell and insulating sleeve.
• Unfasten the wires from the socket terminal screws.
• Inspect the cord insulation, if it's okay, test the socket and replace if necessary. If it's faulty, continue with these steps.
• Replace a faulty cord by untying the knot.
• Splice the new cord to the old by twisting the bare ends of the wires together and taping them. Pull both cords through.
• Detach the old cord.
• Split the new cord to 2-1/2 inches from the end.
• Tie an Underwriter's knot by making two loops and passing the loose wire ends through the loops. Pull the knot snug.
• Strip 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation from the ends of the wires.
• Wrap one wire clockwise around each socket terminal screw and tighten the screws.
• To reattach the socket, push the insulating sleeve over the socket and push in the shell until you hear it click into place.
• Attach a plug to the cord.

Replacing 240-volt Appliance Cords

• Unplug the damaged cord and unscrew the other end form the terminal screws on the appliance.
• Be sure you get an exact replacement for the damaged cord and plug.
• Connect the new pigtail cord to the terminal screws on the appliance.
• If the wires in the cord and the screws on the appliance are color-coded, attach the wires to the terminal screws of the same color (black to black, white to white, red to red.)
• If either the pigtail cord of the appliance terminal screws are not color-coded, first attach the center wire of the pigtail to the center terminal screw on the appliance.
• Connect the remaining wires to the remaining terminal screws.
• Plug in the new cord.

General Tips for Replacing Plugs

• Many old-style plugs with terminal screws have a removable insulating disc covering the terminals and wires. The National Electrical Code now requires "dead-front" lugs that have a rigid insulating barrier.
• To replace a plug, cut off the old one plus at least an inch of cord. For plugs with terminal screws, split the cord insulation to separate the wires and strip the insulation from the ends.

Replacing a Plug with Terminal Screws

• In terminal screws the wires are attached to screws inside the plug body. To replace:
• Unscrew and remove the new plug's insulating barrier.
• Using a utility knife, split the end of the cord to separate the wires.
• Push the cord through the plug body.
• Make two loops with the wires.
• Pass the loose ends of the wires through the loops and pull tightly to form an Underwriter's knot (this prevents strain on the terminal screws.)
• Strip 1/2 to 3/4 inch of insulation off the wire ends being careful not to nick the wires.
• Unscrew the terminal screws on the barrier to allow space for the wires.
• Form loops on each wire and wrap the wires clockwise 3/4 way around the screws.
• Tighten the screws and trim the excess wire.
• Reattach the barrier.

Replacing Three-Pronged, Grounded Plugs

• Unscrew the insulating barrier.
• Push stripped wires through the plug body into the correct terminal slots.
• Attach the wires to the terminal screws as follows: white neutral wire to silver screw, black hot wire to brass screw and green grounding wire to green terminal screw.
• Tighten the terminal screws and reassemble the plug.

Replacing Self-Connecting Plugs

• Push the cord (don't strip it) through the shell and into the terminal block.
• Squeeze the prongs together to grip the cord.
• Slide into the shell.

Replacing Female Appliance Plugs

• Unscrew the plug shell.
• Feed the cord through the spring guard.
• Strip the wire ends and wrap them clockwise around the terminal screws.
• Tighten and reassemble the plug.

  Doorbells

  Typical Doorbell System

  The parts of a typical doorbell system are the push button, the door bell, chimes or buzzer and the transformer. The transformer allows the doorbell to operate on low voltage (6 to 24 volts.) Wired into the doorbell circuit at a junction box, it steps down the voltage from the regular 120-volt circuit. When your doorbell doesn't ring, or rings constantly, the problem may lie in one of the parts or in the wires that connect them. NOTE: To diagnose most doorbell problems, you'll need to have the power source connected. But if you're going to work on the transformer or the wires in the junction box, be sure to shut off the power to the circuit. Remember that the input side of the transformer is high voltage, 120 volts.

  When the Doorbell is Silent

  The first place to look is the source of power. Make sure a fuse or circuit breaker hasn't blown or tripped. Once you're certain that the 120-volt side of the transformer is getting power, shut off the power and tighten all wire connections. Turn the power back on and check the low-voltage side, following the steps below to find the source of the trouble.

  Testing the Transformer

  • Use a volt-ohm meter. If the transformer is working correctly, the meter reading should match the secondary voltage (6 to 24 volts) marked on the transformer or bell.
  • Set the voltage range on the meter to 120 volts AC and measure the voltage between the two low-voltage terminals on the transformer.
  • If the meter reads significantly higher than the correct secondary voltage, the transformer is defective and should be replaced.
  • If the reading is close to the correct secondary voltage, test again by setting the voltage range on the meter to a lower value. If the new reading doesn't agree with the voltage marked on the transformer or bell, replace the transformer.

  Testing the Push Button

  • Disconnect the two wires connected to the button and short them by touching their bare ends together.
  • If this makes the bell ring, the push button is defective and should be replaced.
  • If the bell doesn't ring, the problem is either in the bell or chime mechanism or in the wiring.

  Testing the Bell or Chime Mechanism

  • Have a helper push the doorbell button while you listen to the bell. If it makes a buzzing or humming noise, it may be gummed up with dirt.
  • Check the mechanism and clean it as necessary using fine-grade sandpaper to remove corrosion form any contacts.
  • If the bell still hums or buzzes after cleaning, replace it.
  • If the bell doesn't make any noise at all when the button is pushed, disconnect the bell and, using new wire, hook it up directly to the transformer. If it works, inspect the old wiring. If it doesn't, replace it.

  Repairing the Wiring

  • Examine the wiring for breaks or frayed insulation that may be causing the wires to short out.
  • Repair any breaks and wrap the repairs with electrician's tape.

  A Constantly Ringing Doorbell

  If a doorbell rings constantly, either the button is stuck or the wires going to the button are shorted together. To test follow these steps:

  • Test the button by turning off the power to the transformer.
  • Remove the button from the door frame and disconnect one of the two wires connected to it.
  • Turn the power back on. If the bell doesn't ring, the button should be replaced. If the bell rings, the problem is a short between the two wires.
  • With the power turned off, examine the wires for frayed insulation or bare wires rubbing together.
  • Use electrician's tape to wrap them where necessary.
  • If you can't find the short, replace the wires.

Lamps and Light Fixtures

Parts of a Lamp

Most incandescent lamps have a socket, switch, cord and plug. Any one of these parts may wear out and need to be replaced. To check a lamp that doesn't work, test the light bulb, plug the lamp into another receptacle to be sure the receptacle isn't at fault and check the plug and cord for wear.

NOTE: A lamp assembled with rivets instead of nuts and bolts can't be taken apart for repair, so you'll have to replace it.

CAUTION: Before working on any lamp, make sure it's unplugged.

Incandescent Light Fixtures

There are many types of incandescent light fixtures including wall and ceiling-mounted lights, from single-bulb globes to chandeliers. They are all connected directly to your home's wiring through a recessed ceiling box hidden by the fixture or a decorative canopy. Though instruction here are for repairing and replacing ceiling-mounted fixtures, you'll use the same procedures for wall-mounted styles.

When a Fixture Doesn't Work

First check the light bulb and then check the circuit and light switch. If the fixture is the problem, the cause may be in the wiring or the socket. Detach the fixture from the ceiling box and check for a loose connection. Tighten if necessary. If the fixture still doesn't work try to replace it or repair it following the instructions found below.

Replacing a Fixture

• Shut off the power, remove the bulb and unscrew the cap nuts to free the fixture from the screws on the ceiling box.
• Disconnect the old fixture and strip 1/2 inch off the new wires.
• Wrap the bare ends around the circuit wires and bend over.
• Install wire nuts.
• Carefully push the new fixture onto the screws that hold it to the ceiling box.
• Screw on the cap nuts to secure the fixture and replace the bulb.

Replacing a Prewired Socket

• Turn off the power and remove the glass shade.
• Unscrew the fixture screws to free the fixture.
• Unscrew the wire nuts to disconnect the socket wires from the circuit wires.
• Unclip and remove the faulty socket from the fixture.
• Attach the new socket by pushing the wires through and splicing them to the circuit wires with wire nuts.
• Reattach the fixture and replace the cover.

Rewiring a Chandelier Arm

• Shut off the power to the circuit.
• Remove the sleeve, detach the wires from the socket terminal screws and unscrew the socket.
• Remove the cap under the fixture.
• Temporarily tape the new socket wires to the old.
• Detach the old wires from the main cord wires and pull the new wires thorough.
• Screw on the new socket and connect the new wires.
• Remove the old socket wires and attach the new ones to the main cord wires.
• Reassemble the fixture

Receptacles

How Receptacles are Wired

Most receptacles have two outlets (duplex receptacles) and are rated at 15 or 20 amps, 120 volts. One or both outlets may be electrically live at all times, or one or both may be controlled by a wall switch. The receptacle may be installed in the middle or at the end of a circuit. The wiring arrangement is different in each case.

Receptacles have three different-colored terminal screws:

• Brass screws are hot.
• White or silver screws are neutral.
• Green screws are for grounding.

Receptacles may be grounding or non-grounding types. Always replace a receptacle with a grounding type unless there's no grounding wire in the box or the box isn't grounded, then you can use a non-grounding receptacle. To install a grounding receptacle to an undgrounded box, you must ground the receptacle independently. For help, consult a professional.

Because receptacles are rated for a specific amperage and voltage, be sure to replace an old one with an exact duplicate. If your wiring is aluminum, your receptacle must be designed to be used with aluminum wire (look for the letters CO/ALR.) use the terminal screws only, backwiring is not suitable for aluminum wires.

Replacing Appliance Receptacles

Appliance receptacles, rated from 15 to 50 amps, 240 volts and from 20 to 50 amps, 120/240 bolts, each require a special plug that will fit only that receptacle. Take care when replacing appliance receptacles because they have two hot wires, usually red and black, going to them. They may or may not have a separate grounding wire.

CAUTION: before beginning any work, turn off the power to the circuit. For a 240-volt circuit, you may have to remove two fuses or trip a two-handed circuit breaker.

Replacing a Grounded Receptacle

• Shut off power to the circuit, unscrew the cover plate and remove.
• Unscrew the receptacle from its box and carefully pull it out.
• Note which wire is connected to which terminal screw.
• Disconnect the wires from the screws.
• To install the new receptacle, wrap the wires clockwise around the screws (use old receptacle as a guide.)
• Screw the receptacle to the box and replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Receptacle

• Shut off the power.
• Push a small-bladed screwdriver into the slots next to the wires.
• Pull them out.
• To install the new receptacle push the end of the stripped black wire into the hole by the brass screws, white wire by the silver ones.

Replacing a 120/240-volt Receptacle

• Shut off the power and remove the receptacle from its box.
• Label the wires and screws.
• Detach the wires.
• Reconnect the wires to their proper screws on the new receptacle.
• Reattach the receptacle to the box and replace the cover plate.

Professional Hint: Using Wire Nuts

For most simple repairs, you won't need to splice wires. But you may have to splice two or more copper wires to replace a damaged wall or ceiling light fixture or to make a connection in a receptacle, switch or junction box. To splice wires:

• Strip 1 inch of insulation off the wires together clockwise.
• Snip off 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the ends.
• Cap the twisted wires with a wire nut, turning it clockwise to secure the connection.
• Make sure the wire nut is the proper size for the wires.
• CAUTION: Don't use any wire nuts to splice together a damaged extension cord. For safety, building codes allow you to splice house wires only within junction, receptacle, fixture or switch boxes. Also, be sure to turn off the power to the circuit before you make any splice.

Saving Electricity

Here are Some Tips for Saving Electricity in the Living Room:

• Install ceiling insulation.
• Keep curtains closed. This prevents heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer.
• Close off unheated areas.
• Don't overheat the room. Increasing the thermostat by 1 degree can increase costs by 3 percent.
• Clean heating and air-conditioner filters regularly.
• Dress appropriately.
• Choose energy-efficient appliances. Compare energy rating labels before you buy.
• Turn off appliances when you aren't using them.
• Remove dust and fluff from the fan and reflective surfaces of heater to keep clean, efficient and safe.

Wall Switches

Types of switches

Single-pole switches control a light or receptacle from one location only and have two screws of the same color.
Three-way switches operate in pairs to control a light or receptacle from two locations. They have two screws of the same color, either brass or silver, and one (called the common terminal screw) of another color, either copper or black.
Dimmer switches are wired like single-pole switches and have either terminal screws or lead wires.

General Tips for Replacing Switches

• Read all the information stamped on the back of the new switch. The new one should have the same amp and voltage ratings as the old.
• If your home's wiring is aluminum, use only replacement switches marked CO/ALR. Replace unmarked switches and switches marked CU/AL with switches marked CO/ALR. Don't backwire switches to aluminum wiring, attach aluminum wires to terminal screws only.
  CAUTION: Always shut off the power to the circuit before you begin work. Use a circuit tester to make sure the circuit you're working on is dead before you touch any wires.

Replacing a Single-Pole Switch

• Turn off the power to the circuit and remove the cover plate.
• Unscrew the switch and pull it out carefully.
• Unfasten the wires.
• To attach the new switch, loop the stripped wired ends clockwise around the terminal screws on the switch.
• Tighten the terminal screws with a screwdriver.
• Push the switch carefully into the switch box to avoid crimping the wires.
• Screw the switch to the box and reattach the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Single-Pole Switch

• Shut off the power and unscrew the cover plate.
• Unscrew and remove the switch from the box.
• Push a small-bladed screwdriver into the backwire release slots on the back of the switch next to each wire and pull the wire out.
• Push stripped wire ends (measure using the wire-stripping gauge) into the terminal on the new switch.
• Attach the switch to the box and replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Three-Way Switch

• Shut off the power and remove the cover plate.
• Unscrew and pull out the switch.
• Label the wire to the common terminal screw with tape.
• Install the new switch, attaching the labeled wire to the common terminal screw (black or copper.)
• Connect each remaining wire to either of the remaining screws.
• Insert in the box and fasten.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Terminal Screws

• Shut off the power and remove the old switch.
• Loop the circuit wires clockwise around the terminal screws on the dimmer.
• Insert in the box.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Lead Wires

• Shut off the power and remove the old switch.
• Connect the circuit wires to the dimmer's lead wires, twisting them together.
• Screw on wire nuts and insert the dimmer in the box.

Professional Hint for Electrical Repairs: How to Strip Wire

• Use a utility knife or penknife to strip insulation off the ends of the wire.
• Use the knife blade to cut through the insulation all the way around, then pull the insulation off the wire.
• Be careful not to nick the wire when you cut, a nicked wire breaks more easily, especially if the nick is where you bend the wire to form a loop for a connection to a terminal screw.
• If you do nick the wire, it's best to cut the wire back to the nick and start stripping again.
• For the best results, purchase a wire stripper at your local hardware store.

Fuses

What are Fuses?

Fuses have a thick metal strip through which current passes into a circuit. If too much current starts to flow, the metal melts and cuts off the current. Fuses may be one of several types:

• Plug and Type S fuses have a metal strip (visible through a window) that melts when there's an overload.
• Time-delay fuses have a spring-loaded strip that allows temporary overloads.
• Cartridge fuses show no sign of overload. They must be tested to reveal whether they've blown.

Fuse Safety Tips

• When a fuse blows, always replace it with one of the same type and amperage rating. Never replace it with one rated higher.
• When you need to change a blown fuse, shut off all power before touching the fuse and be sure you're standing on dry ground.

Electrical Safety Precautions

Working with electricity can be dangerous unless you adhere strictly to certain rules. CAUTION: NEVER WORK ON ANY LIVE CIRCUIT, FIXTURE, RECEPTACLE OR SWITCH. Your life may depend on it. Safety rules you should follow whenever you're working with electricity include:

• Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.
• Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.
• Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you're working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you've removed in your pocket.
• Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.
• Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.

Diagnosing Electrical Problems

Typically, you discover you have an electrical problem when you turn on a lamp or appliance and it won't work. When that happens, the source of the problem may be the device itself, faulty wiring connections, an overloaded or a short circuit.

Overloaded circuit

A circuit becomes overloaded when there are more lamps and appliances on it than it can safely handle. When all the lamps and appliances are turned on, the wiring overheats and the fuse blows or the circuit breaker trips.

Short circuit

A short circuit occurs when a bare hot wire touches a bare neutral wire or a bare grounded wire (or some other ground). The flow of extra current blows a fuse or trips a circuit breaker.

Helpful Diagnostic Hint

Plug fuses provide a clue to what made them blow

• An overload melts the bridge.
• A short circuit blackens the glass.

Troubleshooting Electrical Problems

Light Fixture Won't Work
Appliance Won't Work
Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Circuit -- Works in Others
Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Receptacle of Circuit
Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in Switch-Controlled Receptacle
Some Lights on Circuit Won't Work
No Lights on Circuit Work
Tracing a Short Circuit or Overload
Don't find any of the above signs of trouble?
Problem still not solved?

Light Fixture Won't Work

Check for:

• Burnt out bulb or fluorescent tube
• Defective fluorescent starter
• Faulty switch
• Loose wiring
• Faulty socket

Remedies:

• Replace bulb or tube
• Replace fluorescent starter
• Replace switch
• Tighten connections at switch or fixture
• WHAT ABOUT SOCKET?

Appliance Won't Work

Check for:

• Overloaded circuit
• Damaged plug
• Damaged cord
• Loose wiring
• Defect in appliance or lamp

Remedies:

• Test for overload -- shift appliance or lamp to another circuit
• Replace plug
• Replace cord
• Tighten connections at switch or receptacle
• Test in another circuit -- repair if faulty

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Circuit -- Works in Others

Check for:

• Overloaded circuit
• Loose connection at receptacle
• Short circuit

Remedies

• Test for overload; shift appliance or lamp to another circuit
• Tighten connections at receptacle
• Test for short circuit; make necessary repair

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Receptacle of Circuit

Check for:

• Loose wiring
• Faulty receptacle
• Short circuit

Remedies:

• Tighten connections at receptacle
• Replace receptacle
• Test for short circuit; make necessary repair

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in Switch-Controlled Receptacle

Check for:

• Loose wiring
• Faulty switch
• Faulty receptacle

Remedies:

• Tighten connections at switch or receptacle
• Replace switch
• Replace receptacle

Some Lights on Circuit Won't Work

Check for:

• Loose wiring
• Faulty switch

Remedies:

• Tighten connections at switch or fixture
• Replace switch

No Lights on Circuit Work

Check for:

• Overloaded circuit
• Short circuit
• Loose wiring
• Faulty switch

Remedies:

• Test for overload; make necessary adjustment
• Test for short circuit; make necessary repair
• Tighten connections at switch
• Replace switch

Tracing a Short Circuit or Overload

A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker is a signal that you may have either a short circuit or an overload in the electrical system.

• Look for black smudge marks on switch or receptacle cover plates, or for frayed or damaged cords or damaged plugs on lamps and appliances connected to the dead circuit.
• Replace a damaged cord or plug.
• Then replace the fuse or reset the breaker.
• If the circuit goes dead after an appliance has been in use for a short time, you probably have an overloaded circuit.
• Move some of the lamps and appliances to another circuit and replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker for the first circuit.

Don't find any of the above signs of trouble? Trace your way through the circuit using the steps below.

• Turn off all wall switches and unplug every lamp and appliance on the dead circuit.
• Install a new fuse or reset the tripped breaker.
• If the fuse blows or the breaker trips right away, the problem may be a short circuit in a switch or receptacle.
• With the circuit dead, remove each cover plate and inspect the device and its wiring.
• Look for charred wire insulation, wire shorted against the metal box or a device that's defective.
• Replace a defective device.
• Call in an electrician to replace faulty wiring.
• If the new fuse doesn't blow or the breaker doesn't trip right away, turn on each wall switch, one by one, checking each time to see if the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped.
• If turning on a wall switch causes a fuse to blow or the breaker to trip, there's a short circuit in a light fixture or receptacle, controlled by that switch, or there's a short circuit in the switch wiring.
• With the circuit dead, inspect the fixture, receptacle, and switch for charred wire insulation or faulty connections.
• Replace a faulty switch or fixture.
• Call in an electrician to replace wiring.

Problem still not solved? You probably have faulty wiring. Call an electrician to correct the problem.

If turning on a wall switch doesn't blow a fuse or trip the breaker, the trouble is in the lamps or appliances.

• Test them by plugging them in one by one.
• If the circuit doesn't go dead, the circuit was overloaded.
• Move some of the lamps or appliances to another circuit.
• If the circuit does go dead just after you've plugged in a lamp or appliance, then you've found the offender.
• If the circuit goes dead as soon as you plug in a lamp or appliance, the plug or cord is probably at fault and should be replaced.
• If the circuit goes dead when you turn on the lamp or appliance, the appliance or lamp or its switch is probably defective and should be replaced or repaired

Your Electrical System

Circuit
How Your Home is Wired
Service Entrance Panel and Distribution Center
Grounding to Prevent Shock
Wire Connections
Safety Tip
Safeguards in the System
Circuit breakers
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

Circuit

Circuit refers to the course electric current travels, from the point where power enters your house (the service entrance panel or a subpanel wired to it) through wires to a device using electricity (such as a light fixture) and back to its starting point.

How Your Home is Wired

Today, most homes have what's called "three-wire service." The utility company connects three wires - two "hot," one neutral - through a meter to your service entrance panel. These wires provide both 120-volt and 240-volt capabilities. One hot wire and the neutral wire combined supply 120 volts, the amount used for most household applications, such as lights and small appliances. Both hot wires and the neutral wire can form a 120/240-volt circuit for such needs as a range and dryer.

Service Entrance Panel and Distribution Center

The wires from the master connect to the service entrance panel, the control center for your electrical service. Housed in a cabinet or box, the panel is often located outside your home, below the electric meter. Or it can be on an inside wall, directly behind the meter. In this panel you'll usually find the main disconnect - the main fuses or main circuit breakers to which the wires connect.

After passing through the main disconnect, the wires enter a distribution center housed in the service entrance panel or in a separate subpanel. Here the current is divided into branch circuits, each protected by a fuse or circuit breaker. The branch circuits run to lights, switches, receptacles, and permanently wired appliances.

Grounding to Prevent Shock

The National Electrical Code requires that every circuit have a grounding system. Grounding ensures that, in the event of a short circuit, all metal parts of the wiring system or of lamps or appliances connected to it will be maintained at zero volts. The grounding wire for each circuit is connected to the distribution center and then is run with the hot and neutral wires in the branch circuits.

Wire Connections

Connections between wires are made inside plastic or metal boxes mounted in the walls or ceiling. Switches, receptacles, and wall or ceiling-mounted light fixtures all have their own boxes. Individual wires are wrapped in color-coded insulation for easy identification. Though hot wires are usually black or red, they may be any color other than white, gray or green. Neutral wires are white or gray. Grounding wires are bare or green.

Safety Tip

Occasionally, a white wire will be used as a hot wire. For easy identification, it should be taped or painted black where it's close to terminals and splices.

Safeguards in the System

The service entrance panel and distribution center in your home are equipped with either fuses or circuit breakers. These are the weak points of each circuit - the safety devices that keep the branch circuits and anything connected to them from overheating and catching fire. If there's an overload or a short circuit, a fuse will blow or a circuit breaker will trip, shutting off the flow of current.

Circuit breakers

Circuit breakers are heavy-duty switches that serve the same purpose as fuses. When a circuit is carrying more current than is safe, the breaker switches to Reset. On most breakers, the switch has to be pushed to Off and then to On after the circuit trips.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI)

The GFCI is a special kind of circuit breaker that is installed in bathroom, outdoor and garage locations. If there's a current leakage, or "ground fault," the GFCI opens the circuit instantly, cutting off the electricity. When a GFCI is tripped, reset it as you would a regular circuit breaker. For a receptacle GFCI, push the Reset button.